Tricks of the Trade for Upholsterers and Canvas Workers

Heavy-duty or industrial sewing machines are able to accommodate thick material like denim and leather more easily, which means they can also usually handle vinyl, specialty acrylic fabrics like Sunbrella, and marine fabric better than a home sewing machine. Heavy duty machines can be large and can take up a lot of space.

In general, having a walking foot is advantageous when working with thicker materials, because it feeds layers of fabric through the machine evenly. Most heavy-duty sewing machines feature a walking foot. However, if you need portability or if you’re working in a smaller space, a portable walking foot sewing machine is a good option.

Long-arm sewing machines offer a lot more throat space which allows for greater ease when working with wide or bulky material. Long-arm sewing machines offer between 18 and 24 inches space.

Generally speaking, V-69 thread will be the heaviest thread weight your home machine can handle. Heavier/thicker thread weights require a larger needle, which most likely can’t be accommodated by a home machine.

Here are some examples of thread types and their applications:

• Polyester (Outdoor). Polyester is a popular choice for outdoor applications, especially canvas and sail work due to its UV resistance and stability, its high strength, and its resistance to saltwater, mildew, abrasion, and needle heat when stitching at high speeds.Nylon (Indoor). Nylon is a common choice for indoor upholstery, canvas, leather, and vinyl applications thanks to its impressive strength-to-weight ratio and its elasticity.
• Fluoropolymer or PTFE (Outdoor). Fluoropolymer threads are the strongest available for outdoor applications. Impervious to UV rays, pollution, weather, cleaning products, saltwater, etc., they are ideal for harsh environments.
  • One particularly good option here is GORE^® TENARA^® thread. It’s made from an exclusive ePTFE fiber that not only increases life and durability but also improves sewability.

• Monofilament (Indoor). This single-ply, clear, non-twisted nylon thread is reminiscent of fishing line. It offers a high resistance to abrasion but lacks nylon’s elasticity. Its best use is for applications where you don’t want the stitching to be visible and don’t need the elasticity of nylon.

Thread is spun in different ways and with different “twists”, which affect its behavior. Left Twist thread, also called Standard Twist and Z-Twist thread, is standard for single-needle machines. Right Twist thread, also called Reverse Twist or S-Twist thread, twists to the right and is used for embellishment and decoration in double-needle machines.

Pushing and pulling a needle by hand through thick and hearty fabric can be extremely difficult. A pair of needle nose pliers will aid in pulling a curved or straight needle through.

Whether you’re using a lock stitch, a saddle stitch, or a straight stitch, an overstitch wheel can ensure stitch length is consistent.

A hotknife works well on just about any synthetic fabric (with the exception of vinyl). Watch our Engel Hotknife Tutorial Video to see the tool in action. Not only does it “cut” the fabric, but it leaves a finished edge that will not unravel. A hotknife works best on:

• polyester fabric
• acrylic fabric
• Dacron sailcloth
• nylon fabric
• zippers
• rope
• webbing

Not all scissors work well for upholstery cutting. Choose a pair of high-quality, heavy duty shears. Use shears to cut fabric in a traditional manner or employ a rip cut. Keep in mind that fabric cut with shears will not have a finished edge and will still need to be hemmed to keep it from unraveling.

Pinking shears do a better job than traditional shears of cutting fabric and leaving an edge that is less likely to unravel—a big benefit depending on the type of edge or seam you’re going for.

A rotary fabric cutter makes it easier for the upholsterer to cut through very thick fabric or multiple layers of fabric accurately. A rotary cutter is also much easier on hands and wrists.

• Run your needle through a bar of Ivory soap before install. The residue from the soap will aid in keeping the tape from sticking to the needle.
• Change your needle frequently
• Clean your basting tape-gummed needles with adhesive remover or rubbling alcohol.

• Keep Parts oiled and lubricated as directed by your sewing manual
• Clean out dust that settles into your machine’s many nooks and crannies
• Using a lint brush or canned air, remove dust that accumulates in the bobbin area beneath the needle plate
• Clean area between the tension disks where thread lint can gather and build up