Tricks of the Trade for Upholsterers and Canvas Workers

Starting with the Right Tools

• Use the Right Sewing Machine

  • Heavy-duty sewing machines

    • A regular sewing machine—the kind of machine that used to exist in home economic rooms in high schools across the country—can accommodate many different types of upholstery and marine projects, so long as the material (or the layers of material) don’t get too thick, and the sewist has made good choices regarding needle, thread, and stitch length.
    • That being said, if you’re working with a lot of layers of already thick material, or, if you’re working with a lot of length that needs to be fed through the sewing machine, you’ll need a machine better suited to upholstery work. There are a number of different upholstery sewing machines on the market, and they all offer different features and limitations. For a video guide, reference the 4th Episode of our Sewing Series.

    The most common sewing machines upholsterers use are:

    • Heavy-duty or industrial sewing machines are able to accommodate thick material like denim and leather more easily, which means they can also usually handle vinyl, specialty acrylic fabrics like Sunbrella, and marine fabric better than a home sewing machine. Heavy duty machines can be large and can take up a lot of space.

  • Portable walking foot sewing machines

    • In general, having a walking foot is advantageous when working with thicker materials, because it feeds layers of fabric through the machine evenly. Most heavy-duty sewing machines feature a walking foot. However, if you need portability or if you’re working in a smaller space, a portable walking foot sewing machine is a good option.

  • Long-arm sewing machines

    • Long-arm sewing machines offer a lot more throat space which allows for greater ease when working with wide or bulky material. Long-arm sewing machines offer between 18 and 24 inches space.

• Use the Right Thread

  

  • There’s a lot to consider when selecting thread for an upholstery, awning, tent, or marine sewing project. Beyond more common considerations like color and material, anyone working with heavier fabrics needs to also consider strength-to-weight ratio, resistance to UV rays and moisture, and cost. Without a doubt, the right type of heavy duty thread is not going to be the same for every project. For a visual guide on this topic, check out our Trivantage Thread video.
  • Most upholstery, vinyl, leather, and marine fabric manufacturers will have specific recommendations regarding what type of thread works best with their product. That being said, here are some tips to keep front of mind to make sure you’re using the right upholstery thread for your project:

  • Be careful when choosing thread weight

    • Generally speaking, V-69 thread will be the heaviest thread weight your home machine can handle. Heavier/thicker thread weights require a larger needle, which most likely can’t be accommodated by a home machine.

  • Threads for indoor versus outdoor applications

    • Here are some examples of thread types and their applications:
    • Polyester (Outdoor). Polyester is a popular choice for outdoor applications, especially canvas and sail work due to its UV resistance and stability, its high strength, and its resistance to saltwater, mildew, abrasion, and needle heat when stitching at high speeds.Nylon (Indoor). Nylon is a common choice for indoor upholstery, canvas, leather, and vinyl applications thanks to its impressive strength-to-weight ratio and its elasticity.
    • Fluoropolymer or PTFE (Outdoor). Fluoropolymer threads are the strongest available for outdoor applications. Impervious to UV rays, pollution, weather, cleaning products, saltwater, etc., they are ideal for harsh environments.
      • One particularly good option here is GORE^® TENARA^® thread. It’s made from an exclusive ePTFE fiber that not only increases life and durability but also improves sewability.
    • Monofilament (Indoor). This single-ply, clear, non-twisted nylon thread is reminiscent of fishing line. It offers a high resistance to abrasion but lacks nylon’s elasticity. Its best use is for applications where you don’t want the stitching to be visible and don’t need the elasticity of nylon.

  • Thread twist matters

    • Thread is spun in different ways and with different “twists”, which affect its behavior. Left Twist thread, also called Standard Twist and Z-Twist thread, is standard for single-needle machines. Right Twist thread, also called Reverse Twist or S-Twist thread, twists to the right and is used for embellishment and decoration in double-needle machines.

  • Be careful when choosing thread weight

    • Generally speaking, V-69 thread will be the heaviest thread weight your home machine can handle. Heavier/thicker thread weights require a larger needle, which most likely can’t be accommodated by a home machine.

  • Avoid Thread Degradation

    • Different fabrics require different thread materials to avoid degradation. Using cotton thread with outdoor acrylic fabric can lead to premature deterioration due to varying resistance to environmental factors. Choosing a thread material that's compatible with the fabric's characteristics ensures the longevity of your project.

  • Prioritize Colorfastness

    • If your project requires vibrant and long-lasting colors, consider threads designed to resist fading caused by UV exposure. These threads retain their color integrity over time, maintaining the visual appeal of your work.

  • Desired Stitch Appearance

    • Threads with different levels of sheen or texture can impact the visual appeal of your stitching. For decorative projects, such as upholstery with visible stitching, choosing a thread that complements the fabric's aesthetics is crucial for achieving the desired final look.

  • Reducing Thread Friction

    • Some fabrics are more delicate and prone to fraying than others. Choosing threads with a smoother texture can reduce friction during sewing, minimizing the chances of fabric damage.

• Use the Right Needle

  • It’s hard to overstate how important it is to use the right needle size and type—not just in your home, industrial, or quilting sewing machine—but for any handwork as well. For the most part, it’s essential to follow all manufacturer instructions related to sewing machine needle sizes. Yes, the needle that came with your 20-year-old Juki will likely work on your new Janome, but do your research first to make sure. Similarly, it’s important to choose a needle size that corresponds to the weight of the thread you’re using and the type of fabric you’re sewing.
  • For hand sewing, high quality curved needles, straight needles, and automatic sewing awls are essential. Some tricks for hand sewing, include:

  • Use needle nose pliers

    • Pushing and pulling a needle by hand through thick and hearty fabric can be extremely difficult. A pair of needle nose pliers will aid in pulling a curved or straight needle through.

  • Use an overstitching wheel

    • Whether you’re using a lock stitch, a saddle stitch, or a straight stitch, an overstitch wheel can ensure stitch length is consistent.

• Use Clips, Not Pins

  • Pinning fabric has its place, but oftentimes, when you’re working with heavy, stiff fabric, regular sewing pins can’t even be worked into the fabric, let alone hold it in place. For this reason and others—such as when you’re working with fabric for outside applications and need to avoid extra and unnecessary holes that will compromise a project’s water resistant or waterproof qualities—clips are preferable.
  • Not only can clips keep layers tight, but when working fabric beneath a sewing machine needle and walking foot or presser foot, the clips can help ensure the bulk of an already-bulky fabric’s layers can pass beneath the machine’s throat.
  • Clip options can run the gamut, but some of the most popular options are: clothes pins, wonder clips, and pony clips.

The thread you choose is as vital as the fabric itself and plays a significant role in the project's durability, appearance, and overall performance. By understanding the characteristics of different threads and their compatibility with various fabrics, you can ensure that your sewing work stands the test of time and meets your project's specific requirements.

Cutting Tools and Hotknives

• Use the Right Cutting Tool

  • Hotknife

    • A hotknife works well on just about any synthetic fabric (with the exception of vinyl). Watch our Engel Hotknife Tutorial Video to see the tool in action. Not only does it “cut” the fabric, but it leaves a finished edge that will not unravel. A hotknife works best on:
    • polyester fabric
    • acrylic fabric
    • Dacron sailcloth
    • nylon fabric
    • zippers
    • rope
    • webbing

  • Shears

    • Not all scissors work well for upholstery cutting. Choose a pair of high-quality, heavy duty shears. Use shears to cut fabric in a traditional manner or employ a rip cut. Keep in mind that fabric cut with shears will not have a finished edge and will still need to be hemmed to keep it from unraveling.

  • Pinking shears

    • Pinking shears do a better job than traditional shears of cutting fabric and leaving an edge that is less likely to unravel—a big benefit depending on the type of edge or seam you’re going for.

  • Rotary Cutter

    • A rotary fabric cutter makes it easier for the upholsterer to cut through very thick fabric or multiple layers of fabric accurately. A rotary cutter is also much easier on hands and wrists.

• Stay Safe Around Hotknifed Edges

  • Hotknifed edges, especially the hotknifed edges of Sunbrella fabric, can be sharp. Be careful when working with the material after using a hotknife. It’s even a good idea to wear gardening gloves or leather gloves when turning fabric that’s been cut with a hotknife to avoid getting a cut or abrasion.

Measuring, Cutting, & Sewing

• Measure Twice, Cut Once

  • Whether or not you’ve been upholstering or working with canvas or sailcloth your whole life, the old adage holds true: Measure twice and cut once to save yourself a whole lot of hassle.

• Avoid Needle Pucker

  • Needle pucker is a common problem when sewing with upholstery fabric or canvas. While impossible to solve completely, especially when working with a lot of length, here are a few tips to help you lessen it:

  • Tips for Avoiding Needle Pucker

    • Sew with a longer stitch length. In addition to reducing the amount of times fabric is punctured, using a longer stitch length—at least 6mm, but 8mm or 10mm is fine, too—will help with reducing needle pucker.
    • Ensure layers are feeding into your sewing machine at the same rate. Feeding multiple layers of fabric through a sewing machine can cause needle pucker when different layers move at different rates. To combat this cause of fabric or needle pucker, use Seamstick to hold down layers or use a walking foot sewing machine.
    • Use the right thread and needle size. As was mentioned above, using the right type of thread and needle is essential when working with heavier fabrics. If you use too large a needle or thread, puckering will increase. Be careful though—too small a needle and thread strength can yield weak seams.
    • Use bonded thread. Bonded thread is resin coated, and this extra bit of lubrication can reduce friction and abrasion, which will also reduce needle pucker.
    • When possible, sew on the weft. It’s not usually possible to sew on the weft due to the added labor costs and waste, but whenever it is possible, do it. Sewing on the warp always causes more pucker.
    • Reduce thread tension. Too much thread tension leads to puckering. To counter this, reduce your thread tension to where your machine just barely pulls the bottom knot into the fabric.
    • Slow down. Fast sewing results in more fabric pucker. Slow down the speed at which you’re working fabric through your machine, and you’ll find less pucker as a result.
    • Use Scotch Tape. Placing a small rectangle of scotch tape along the bottom of your presser foot can assist the foot in moving more smoothing over the top of some fabrics, like marine canvas. Of course, if you use a walking foot sewing machine, this tip won’t work.
    • Plan for it. Sewing with heavy fabric will result in some needle pucker, so be sure you plan for it. Sewists working with upholstery, canvas, and other heavy fabrics should expect to lose 1 to 2 percent of their fabric’s length to needle pucker.

• Create Better Seams and Hems

  

  • Seams and hems can be tricky for the upholsterer and canvas worker because thick fabric and layers of fabric don’t always want to submit to folds. Here’s how to succeed in getting folded material to lie flat when creating a seam or hem, plus a few other tricks related to seams and hems.

  • How to Get Folded Fabric to Lie Flat for Sewing

    • To get your folded fabric to lie flat for folding, first mark where your folds will lie on your fabric. (Be careful to use the right marking tool.
    • For example, use soapstone on Sunbrella and other synthetic fabrics. It can be removed with relative ease with a little water.) Use Seamstick or another basting tape to adhere the fold to itself so sewing is easier. Another way to get fabric to lie flat is to strike a line with an awl where the fold will be.

  • How to Use Basting Tap

    • When using basting tape, tear it at the length you desire rather than cutting it. A tear’s ragged edge makes it easier to get the release paper off for quicker and less frustrating use.
    • Another tip for using basting tape or Seamstick is to sew right through it when it’s inside a hem or seam fold to aid in water tightness. That being said, if you don’t need your seam to be waterproof, don’t sew through your basting tape. Sew alongside it.

• Layer Up for Fasteners

  

  • Adding fasteners of any kind to your project necessitates creating more stability and durability. To achieve that, you’ll need to use at least three layers of fabric for smaller grommets, standard fasteners, and twist lock fasteners. For projects that will need even more durability, use four fabric layers.

• How to Sew in Straight Lines

  • Everyone wants to sew straight lines, but when working with heavy or finicky upholstery material, it’s easier said than done. Still, there are a few tricks of the trade that can yield better results.

  • Sew in Segments

    • There’s no need to sew long lines, and when it comes sewing straight with heavy material, a long line can make straight sewing nearly impossible. So sew in segments. Then, readjust your hands on the fabric and continue sewing. Sewing this way ensures the sewist has better control over fabric positioning as it moves under the presser foot.

  • Bury the Needle

    • Anytime you need to make an adjustment with the fabric assembly, whether you’re rolling material so it fits under the sewing machine arm or you’re striking a new angle with the same seam, bury the needle in the fabric before making the adjustment. With the needle buried, you can shift the fabric, move it around, and make all the adjustments you need without losing your place. When you’re ready to start sewing again, simply start up again and continue on.

  • Avoid the Temptation to Steer the Fabric

    • There’s no need to steer the fabric. Simply keep a steady foot pressure and let the sewing machine do the work. Pushing the material toward the needle or pulling it from the back side of the machine will just result in messy stitches and puckered fabric.

Tips for Working with Binding

Choosing the Right Fabric

Different applications require different fabrics, just like certain materials need special tools in order to fabricate a high-quality product. Learn more about heavy vinyl fabric, double rub ratings, and recycling excess fabric below.

• Sewing with Heavy Vinyl Fabric

  • When sewing heavy vinyl fabric, feeding it through a sewing machine can be difficult due to its weight and stickiness. To aid in sewing, use polyester batting underneath the fabric. It will make it easier to feed the vinyl through.

• Why is a Double Rub Rating Important?

  • Always mind your double rubs when choosing fabric for your desired application & use expectations. Double rubs is a fabric wear rating or abrasion resistance measurement taken from the Wyzenbeek Test. The test is designed to simulate people sitting on furniture to determine how quickly a fabric will wear and tear. A cotton duck is rubbed back and forth across a fabric. Each back and forth pass equals one double rub.
  • For upholstering furniture in high-use rooms, such as family rooms, you’ll want to use a fabric with a rating of at least 15,000 double rubs.

• Recycle Excess Fabric

  • Recycling both synthetic and natural upholstery fabric scraps is becoming easier, and it’s never been more important. Recycling unused and excess fabric helps to:
  • Keep scraps out of landfills
  • Reduce pollution
  • Reduce water and energy consumption in manufacturing new fabrics
  • Reduce demand for dyes
  • Both Sunbrella^® and FIRESIST^® fabrics can be recycled through Glen Raven’s Recycle My Sunbrella program.

Maintaining Your Machine

From a Singer heavy duty sewing machine to a serger, all sewing machines perform at their best when regularly maintained and cleaned. What does it mean to clean and maintain your machine regularly? Here are some standard maintenance and cleaning tips that apply to all sewing machine types:

• Regular Cleaning for Optimal Performance

  • In addition to routine maintenance, keeping your sewing machine clean is crucial for its optimal performance. Dust, lint, and debris can accumulate in various parts of the machine, affecting its functionality and stitch quality. Regular cleaning not only prevents these issues but also extends the life of your machine.

  • Basic Sewing Machine Maintenance Tips

    • Keep Parts oiled and lubricated as directed by your sewing manual
    • Clean out dust that settles into your machine’s many nooks and crannies
    • Using a lint brush or canned air, remove dust that accumulates in the bobbin area beneath the needle plate
    • Clean area between the tension disks where thread lint can gather and build up

• Key Focus Areas When Cleaning

  • Bobbin Area

    • Remove the bobbin case and clean out any lint or thread remnants. A buildup of debris here can affect the bobbin's smooth rotation and lead to thread tension issues.

  • Feed Dogs

    • Use a small brush or a vacuum attachment to clean the feed dogs. These metal teeth move the fabric through the machine and can get clogged with lint.

  • Tension Disks

    • Lint and thread fragments can accumulate between the tension disks, affecting thread tension. Gently floss between the disks to remove any buildup.

  • Needle Plate

    • Regularly remove the needle plate and clean underneath it. This area can accumulate lint and debris, impacting stitch quality.

  • Thread Path

    • Follow the thread path from the spool to the needle, ensuring there are no tangles or obstructions that could cause the thread to break or skip stitches.

• Signs of Wear and Mechanical Issues

  • While regular maintenance and cleaning can prevent many issues, sewing machines can still experience wear and mechanical problems over time. Here are some signs to watch out for:

  • Unusual Noises

    • Grinding, squeaking, or knocking sounds may indicate a mechanical issue. If you notice unusual noises, it's best to have your machine inspected by a professional.

  • Uneven Stitches

    • If your stitches are consistently uneven or loose, it could be a sign of tension problems, worn parts, or a need for calibration.

  • Thread Breakage

    • Frequent thread breakage can result from a variety of issues, including blunt needles, incorrect tension, or burrs on the machine's components.

  • Skipped Stitches

    • Skipped stitches may occur due to a bent needle, improper threading, or timing issues.

  • Loss of Power

    • If your machine suddenly loses power or stops working altogether, it could be an electrical issue that requires professional attention.

  • Needle Jamming

    • If the needle repeatedly jams or gets stuck, there may be a problem with the needle, bobbin, or timing mechanism.

More Trivantage Resources

So there you have it: A treasure trove of advice that should make sewing upholstery and working with heavy fabric and canvas easier and more predictable. If you’d like more tips and tricks, check out the many tutorials and explainers in our Video Library today.

Disclaimer:

The purpose of this guide is to give fabricators some general guidelines and product information. Read all our Product Guides.

This guide should not be considered as the sole source of information on sewing. This guide is strictly informational.

Please reach out to your local customer care team for more guidance.